Songket Symbolism
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Songket patterns may be categorized in a number of ways. Generally they may be classified into seven main types of patterns:
  • Songket bunga penuh (overall or full pattern)
  • Songket bunga bertabur (spotted or scattered pattern)
  • Songket corak berjalur (stripes)
  • Songket corak berdiri (vertical stripes)
  • Songet corak melintang (horizontal stripes)
  • Songket corak siku keluang (chevron)
  • Songket corak tapak catur (checks)
  • Songket corak pucuk rebung (bamboo shoot pattern)
  • Tepi kain (border pattern)
In a full-patterned songket (songket bunga penuh) one of the popular motifs is the corak teluk berantai which means bays or l agoons along the coastline or curves in rivers. This particular
ornamentation is produced by dividing up the area to be decorated into three main parts: the Teluk (bays) which are made up of rhomboids, squares, octagonal and ogees that are filled with floral motifs; the Rantai or the linked chains which enclose the bays; and the intersections of the chains. This pattern is normally used in the main part of the cloth or badan kain, and is usually filled with gold thread.

This full-patterned songket is usually set against a dark background colour of black, scarlet or dark blue where these patterns are beautifully enhanced. The main motifs in the teluk berantai pattern are sometimes bold and sometimes small. Among the popular ones are: bunga tiga dara (three maidens), bunga tampuk buah kesemak (corolla of the persimmon fruit), bunga tampuk manggis (corolla of mangosteen) and bunga mahkota raja (the ruler's crown).

In the rantai or chain section the main motifs are: rantai bunga bintang (a chain of stars), rantai bunga cengkih (a chain of cloves), rantai unduk-unduk (a chain of sea-horses), rantai jagung (a chain of maize) rantai bunga pecah empat (a chain of four-petalled flowers) and rantai bunga cermai (a chain of the cermai fruit).

     

 
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