Much documentation is still hazy about the origins of the
songket fabric and weaving techniques. Several theories were
written by historians in an effort to narrow down songket weaving
point of origin. Songket weaving was introduced into the Malay
Peninsula by the influx of Indian and Arab traders between the
thirteenth centuries to sixteenth centuries through the port
of Malacca. Songket fabric was said to have brought in during
the Malacca Sultanate Empire period when trade to the Malay
Peninsula was at its peak during the fifteen centuries. The
materials such as silk threads and looms necessary for weaving
were brought along by traders from India, China and the Arab
world and the West, via India. Indian traders brought in the
first primitive backstrap loom and along with it the use of
cotton. Although later the backstrap loom was replaced by the
simple frame loom, still in use today.
This theory is supported through the writings of Duarte Barbosa,
which described the fine silk and brocade worn by the rich in
the famous city Malacca. He goes on and describe the Malays
and their attire “… the most distinguished among
them wear short coats which come half way down their thighs
of silk cloth – in grain brocade (songket?) – and
over this they wear girdles; at their waist they wear daggers
in damascene- work which they call crus (keris)…..”.(the
book of Duarte Barbosa)
Up to the 16th centuries, trading in textile was also active
in the east coast states of Kelantan and Terengganu. In contrary
to the theory of origin via the port of Melaka, Kelantanese
believed, historically, songket was brought in through the north,
via Cambodia and Thailand, and then came down via Patani, to
Kelantan and then to Terengganu. The effect of Siamese domination
in the Malay Peninsular states became evident when study the
‘gigi yu’ motif of the bamboo shoot (pucuk rebung)
which resembles the Siamese flames.
However, in Terengganu, it is believed that songket weaving
came from India through the Sumatran during the time of Sri
Vijaya. The Sumatran origin is most likely to be accepted due
to several reasons still evident today. Facts shows most weavers
are found in Terengganu today then anywhere else in Malaysia,
while fine pieces of songket still being produced in Aceh, Sumatera,
resembles greatly to the old songket pieces kept in local textile
museum in Aceh.
