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For a long period of time, the traditional
weavers lived in a world very close to nature. In the rural
villages they see things with discerning eyes, capture the
intricate designs of nature and incorporate them as motifs
and patterns in their creative works. As a result, most
of the motifs in songket are designed and named after the
flora and fauna of their environment. Examples of flower
motifs are bunga tanjung, bunga kemunting Cina, and bunga
cengkih; and of fruits are buah manggis, buah kesemak, buah
delima and buah cermai. A favourite motif from nature is
pucuk rebung which is the young, triangular shaped bamboo
shoot.
Motifs from the animal kingdom include unduk--unduk (sea
horses), gigi yu (shark's teeth), gigi belalang (grasshopper's
teeth), kepala lalat (head of the fly), siku keluang (flying
fox's elbow), kaki lipan (centipede's legs), jari buaya
(crocodile's claws) and jari gagak (crow's claws). Another
source of inspiration for the songket weavers are the shapes
of a great variety of Malay cakes and sweetmeats that are
usually arranged in geometrical designs on plates. Sometimes
the shapes of the cakes themselves lend their names to evoke suitable motifs.
For example, we have the potong wajik (a diamond-shaped
cake of glutinous rice), tepung talam (also a diamond-shaped
cake), madu manis (honey sweet cake), potong seri kaya (egg
jam cake) and potong putu (cakes of rice flour or peas).
Activities around the village have also made some impact
on songket designs, like the bunga tiga dara (the three
maidens), lawi ayam (the cockerel's tail feathers), bunga
pitis (coins), tapak catur (squares of the chessboard),
biji peria (bitter gourd seeds). Further a field we have
motifs with names like kota raja (the ruler's fort) and
cogan (ruler's mace). The moods and temperaments of nature
too are depicted,for instance, the swirling and eddying
water of the rivers and rapids is captured in the air muleh
motif and the trailing clouds in the blue heaven are seen
in the awan larat motif, which is represented by a chain
of 'C' or horizontal 'S' -shaped patterns. The chain of
bays or lagoons along Malaysian beaches has created a unique
motif called teluk berantai which is also known as jong
sarat (the well-laden junk) in the state of Kelantan.
Motifs that are derived from the world of beliefs and the
cosmos include lidah bota (the demon's tongue), bunga semangat
(inspirational flower), sinar matahari (the sun's rays),
bintang beralih (the changing star), pergunungan (mountain
range) and tampuk semesta (core of the universe). Animal
motifs are highly stylized and modified because Islam discourages
a realistic portrayal of animal and human figures in art.
Most songket motifs, because of the nature of the weaving
technique, have the tendency to become geometrical in design
and this characteristic has helped to diffuse an exact portrayal of human figures or animal shapes. As a matter
of fact it is extremely rare to find a motif depicting humans.
Even the bunga tiga dara does not display anything close
to the figures of the three maidens but depicts a floral
pattern that resembles a tulip with three petals.
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